One and done for the holidays

Comfort food in troubled times

HH Laura Frankel 2024 image

While the holidays are not the same as they were last year, it is important to celebrate. Our ancestors celebrated in the darkest of times and in the bleakest of places, including concentration camps. 

I think cooking for the holiday and feeding family and friends is very important this year. Cooking for and feeding those you love has a palliative effect. Food made from scratch is a soothing balm. I am looking forward to comfort food and not fussing too much. But I am planning to go all out fussing on dessert! 

This is a One Pot Wonder that comes together after lazily bubbling away in a low oven. Arguably the world's tastiest and most famous beef stew, it is also perfect for a comfy and cozy holiday gathering.

Don't be put off by the word "stew." The techniques in cooking this dish are what makes the dish not only delicious but also versatile. Be sure to take the time to really caramelize the meat. All that browning adds flavor.

And don't skimp on the bouquet garni. The bouquet of herbs adds deep complex and aromatic flavors. Parsley adds a grassy-herb flavor while bay leaf adds subtle sweetness. Thyme adds a citrus-floral quality and rosemary adds a woodsy-pine flavor that takes the dish right into autumn. 

You can serve this stew ladled over parsley noodles or give the recipe the VIP treatment with elevated potatoes like my gratin of Potatoes Savoyard and a generous sprinkle of Gremolata. I like to serve Boeuf Bourguignon spread out on an elegant, rimmed platter over scoops of Potatoes Savoyard, and to pass the gremolata. 

Boeuf Bourguignon

Once the meat is browned, the dish comes together in the oven. Easy to make and easy to serve. I am making a large batch and will freeze some for Sukkot. This will be delicious all throughout the holidays and into late fall.

Serves 6

Extra virgin olive oil

6 tablespoons flour

1 tablespoon sea salt and 2 teaspoons freshly cracked black pepper (for the boeuf)

3 pounds beef chuck, cut into 1 ½ inch cubes

2 medium Spanish onions, cut in quarters

3 medium carrots cut in coarse chunks

2 celery ribs, cut into coarse chunks

2 whole heads of garlic, cut in half horizontally to expose the cloves

3 tablespoons tomato paste

½ cup good quality port wine

3 cups dry red wine (I like to use a decent Cabernet)

2 cups chicken or beef stock (homemade is best)

1 bouquet garni of: 3 fresh parsley sprigs, 2 rosemary sprigs, 4 thyme sprigs and 1 bay leaf tied together with kitchen twine

1-ounce dried porcini mushrooms (in my opinion, this is a MUST for adding deep, earthy-meaty flavor)

1 pound cremini mushrooms-quartered

8 ounces pearl onions, peeled

1 teaspoon sea salt and ½ teaspoons freshly cracked black pepper (for the mushroom and onions)

Preheat oven to 325°F

  1. Heat a large Dutch oven, lightly coated with EVOO, over medium-high heat.
  2. Whisk flour, salt and pepper together. Dredge beef in flour mixture and shake off excess.
  3. Brown meat in pan, being sure not to over-crowd the pan. Remove browned meat and set aside.
  4. Decrease heat to medium and brown onions, carrots, celery, and garlic. Stir occasionally until browned.
  5. Add tomato paste and port wine. Stir to coat vegetables and continue cooking until caramelized.
  6. Add wine, stock, bouquet garni and porcini mushrooms. Add browned meat back to the pan.
  7. Cover and place in pre-heated oven. Braise for 2 hours.
  8. While braising, heat a large saute pan, lightly coated with EVOO, over medium-high heat, and sauté cremini mushrooms and pearl onions; season with salt and pepper.
  9. After 2 hours, remove Dutch oven and discard onions, carrots, celery, and garlic. Add mushrooms and pearl onions. Skim off any fat that has risen to the surface.
  10. Continue cooking, uncovered, about 45 minutes, until the meat is tender, and the braising liquid has reduced and coats the meat.
  11. Serve with Potatoes Savoyard and sprinkled with Gremolata.

Gremolata adds a bright-zippy flavor to each bite. The freshness lightens flavors and readies the palate for the next delicious mouthful. I use gremolata on everything from roasted vegetables, to fish, poultry, and meats. You can add toasted pumpkin seeds, nuts, a variety of herbs, finely minced or crispy shallots, chopped chiles, and toasted breadcrumbs. 

1/3 cup finely chopped flatleaf parsley

      2 cloves garlic, grated on a microplane

      Zest of 1 orange

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Pinch of sea salt

  1. Stir parsley, garlic, orange and lemon zests, lemon juice, evoo, and salt together. Store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. 

Potatoes Savoyard

Creamy, comforting, and a perfect cozy side for the Beef main dish. These potatoes are a delicious accompaniment all winter long.

Serves 6

2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and sliced thinly to ¼ inch (I use a mandolin)

3 tablespoons EVOO

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper

3 large leeks, white and light green parts only, sliced thinly

6 cloves garlic, minced

2 cups chicken or vegetable stock

For horseradish-breadcrumb topping (optional)

1 ½ cups panko style breadcrumbs

¼ cup evoo

3 tablespoons prepared horseradish

2 teaspoons sea salt and 1 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

¼ cup finely chopped flatleaf parsley

Grease a 9x13 inch oven-proof pan with EVOO, preheat oven to 350°F.

  1. Toss sliced potatoes, EVOO, nutmeg, salt, and pepper together. Layer 1/3 potatoes in greased pan. Sprinkle 1/3 chopped leeks and garlic over potatoes. Add another layer of potatoes and then leeks and garlic and finally the remaining potatoes and leeks and garlic.
  2. Pour chicken stock over potatoes. If you are not adding breadcrumbs, cover with foil and proceed to step 4.
  3. Mix breadcrumbs, EVOO, horseradish, salt, pepper, and parsley. Sprinkle over top of potatoes.
  4. Cover with foil, place dish on top of a rimmed baking sheet in case of spills and bake for 30 minutes.
  5. After 30 minutes, uncover pan and continue baking until stock has been absorbed, potatoes are tender, and breadcrumbs are golden. 

Apple-Cinnamon Babka

Making challah, babka, and any baked goods made with a yeast dough is methodical and meditative. I like the structure of the recipe and enjoy watching ingredients turn into risen loaves of love.

Fear not! This recipe only looks hard. It is easy if you take it step by step. At the end you will have 3 gorgeous babkas that be frozen and enjoyed for Sukkot and beyond.

I use extra virgin olive oil in all pareve baking. EVOO is a good-for-you oil and is part of the Mediterranean Diet. I use a good quality oil and I promise your dough will not taste like olive oil! I use extra virgin olive oil in my challah dough, baked goods and many desserts.

Makes 3 loaves

1½ cups warm water (warm-not hot)
2 (¼ ounce each) packages active dry yeast
¾ cups plus a pinch of sugar
3 whole large eggs, room temperature
2 large egg yolks, room temperature

1 tablespoon vanilla extract
6 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for work surface, divided
2 teaspoons sea salt
1 ¾ cups extra virgin olive oil plus more for bowl and loaf pans
3 apples, peeled, cored and grated on large holes of a grater

1 cup apple sauce (homemade or purchased)
2 tablespoons ground cinnamon

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 12/ cups brown sugar

Pinch of sea salt
Simple syrup*

Vanilla Glaze**

1. Pour warm water into a small bowl. Combine yeast, 1 ½ cups of flour and pinch of sugar over water; let stand until the surface resembles a sponge (about 15 minutes).

2. In a bowl, whisk together sugar, 2 eggs, egg yolks and vanilla. Add egg mixture to yeast mixture and whisk to combine.

3. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine flour and salt. Add egg mixture and beat on low speed until almost all the flour is incorporated, about 30 seconds.

4. Change to the dough hook. Add 1 cup oil, and beat until flour mixture is completely incorporated, and a smooth, soft dough that's slightly sticky when squeezed is formed, about 10 minutes.

5. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead a few turns until smooth. Grease a large bowl. Place dough in bowl and turn to coat. Cover with a towel and set aside in a warm place to rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.

6. Combine grated apples with applesauce, cinnamon, cornstarch, brown sugar and salt.

7. Generously grease three 9-by-5-by-2¾-inch loaf pans; line with parchment paper that has an overhang (this will aid in removing babkas from the pans). Beat remaining egg with 1 tablespoon water; set egg wash aside. Press back dough, and transfer to a clean surface. Let rest 5 minutes.

8. Cut into 3 equal pieces. Keep 2 pieces covered while working with one. On a generously floured surface, roll dough out into a 16-inch square; it should be 1/8 inch thick.

9. Brush edges with reserved egg wash. Sprinkle 1/3 of filling evenly over dough, leaving a 1/4-inch border. Refresh egg wash if needed.

10. Starting at 1 long side, roll dough up, jelly-roll style, into a log, lifting dough as needed to prevent filling from slipping out. Using a serrated knife, cut log in half lengthwise. Arrange dough pieces side by side, cut sides up, on work surface. Carefully twist dough pieces together, keeping cut sides facing up. (This process can be messy and that is OK!) Shape twisted dough into a lined pan; tuck ends under and tuck any apple slices back in, if needed Repeat with remaining two pieces of dough and remaining filling.

11. Heat oven to 350°F. Brush tops of each loaf with egg wash. Loosely cover each pan with a towel and let stand in a warm place for 20 to 30 minutes.

12. Place loaves in pre-heated oven. Brush loaves every 20 minutes with simple syrup (this makes a lovely candy-like crust) and bake loaves, rotating halfway through, until golden, about 55 minutes (finished loaves will have an internal temperature of 190°F).

13. Remove from oven, brush one last time with simple syrup and transfer to wire racks until cool.

14. Remove from pans. Drizzle generously with glaze and serve.

Simple syrup

Simple syrup is a handy ingredient to have in your arsenal for cocktails, adding moisture to cake layers, marinating berries, marinades, and more.

You can add more flavor to simple syrup by adding a cinnamon stick, orange or lemon peel, vanilla bean, coffee beans, star anise, chiles, and more.

Additionally simple syrup can be made with brown sugar for a toasty, caramel flavor.

2 cups water

2 cups granulated sugar

1.     Bring water and sugar to a simmer. Remove from heat.

2.     Simple syrup can be stored for months in the refrigerator.

Apple Cider Glaze

Crisp cider is the key to this topping. Apple juice is just too sweet. Be sure the babkas are completely cool before glazing.

2 ½ cups confectioner's sugar, sifted

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons EVOO

1 cup apple cider

1.     Whisk sugar, honey, evoo, and apple cider together to form a smooth and thick glaze. 

Laura Frankel--a noted kosher chef, and cookbook author--serves as Director of Culinary Operations at CJE SeniorLife-Tamarisk NorthShore. She is also a Product Development Specialist and has worked as Culinary Director for a media company.

   


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