There is a moment, at the stalls at the farmer's markets, when summer leaks into fall, and the delicate berries, soft peaches, and plums yield to muscular bulbs, hairy roots, and warty tubers.
Root vegetables were likely the catalyst for towns, and even civilization itself, thousands of years ago. Due to their densely structured composition-replete with sugars, starches, minerals, antioxidants, fiber, and vitamins-early humans could survive on cultivated tubers much more easily and safely than by going on a hunt. That root vegetables could be stored made them a superior crop to delicate leafy vegetables.
Modern root vegetables offer a candy store of options. Crayon-colored carrots range from purple and magenta to orange and yellow, while beets run the gamut from dark, blood-red garnet to cartoonish candy-stripe pink. It is hard not to get excited when the roots come to market.
Root vegetables come into season in the fall. They store well for long periods of time in dark cool places, hence the invention of the "root cellar."
Root veggies are similar to the economy cuts of meat like brisket, pot roast, and chuck. Long, slow cooking methods coax the flavors out of them. These vegetables also take on delicious flavors from spices, garlic, and onions.
Some of the best root vegetables have been hiding in plain sight at your local store. They may not be as flashy as summer's heirloom tomatoes, but they are a delicious change for cold weather dishes.
Maple-Garlic Roasted Root Vegetables
The quintessential fall side dish is colorful and earthy, with the aroma of caramel and garlic. Completely mouthwatering! I cut my vegetables very chunky, but try to leave the carrots looking like their natural shape. I want the vegetables to look like a bouquet of organic shapes. For this dish, less is more when fussing.
If you have never had rutabagas, I urge you to give them a try. They are less sweet than carrots but become sweeter as they roast. They also are high in fiber and vitamin C.
Use the best maple syrup you can find. The toffee, caramel flavor of maple is a delicious counterpoint to earthy root veggies.
This dish is a perfect side for Thanksgiving and for any fall and winter meal. I change the vegetables according to what looks good.
Serves 6-8
5 pounds root vegetables (I use a mix of beets, colorful carrots, rutabagas, parsnips, and turnips), peeled and cut into approximately the same size
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (EVOO)
Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 cup chicken broth
¼ cup maple syrup
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
Several sprigs of fresh thyme
Garnish: drizzle of EVOO
Preheat oven to 400F, line 2 baking sheets with parchment
Toss vegetables with EVOO and season with salt and pepper.
Place the veggies on lined baking sheets. Drizzle with red wine vinegar.
Roast, stirring veggies occasionally until tender, about 40-50 minutes.
While veggies are roasting, simmer chicken broth, maple syrup, garlic, and thyme until reduced to ¼ cup. The mixture will be thick and syrupy. Remove thyme sprigs.
Transfer vegetables to a platter or serving bowl and toss with glaze.
Root Vegetable Tagine
Moroccan spices are like a warm hug. The aroma is cozy and perfect for a cold day. This dish can be served as a perfect side to chicken, lamb, or fish, or as a hearty vegetarian entrée. Root vegetables are enhanced by the spices and long, slow cooking session. Dates add sweetness and a delicious toffee flavor.
Serves 8
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped
1 fennel bulb, sliced thinly
Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper
2 pounds turnips, peeled and cut into ¾-inch dice
1 pound parsnips, peeled and cut into ¾-inch dice
1 pound sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice
8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons ground coriander
2 teaspoons crushed red chilis (optional)
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
¾ teaspoon cinnamon
One 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, crushed with your hands
1 quart vegetable broth
Pinch of saffron threads
Two 15-ounce cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1 cup diced pitted dates
Suggested garnish: pomegranate arils (or "seeds"), a drizzle of good EVOO
Heat a large Dutch oven or saucepan, lightly coated with EVOO, over medium heat. Sauté onions and fennel until lightly caramelized.
Add parsnips, turnips, and sweet potatoes. Continue cooking until golden and slightly softened.
Add garlic, tomato paste, cumin, coriander, crushed red chilis (if using), caraway, and cinnamon. Stir to coat vegetables and continue cooking until lightly toasted.
Add tomatoes, broth, chickpeas, dates, and saffron. Stir to combine. Cover and braise in preheated oven until vegetables are tender (about 1 hour).
Spiced Carrot Loaf Cake
Sometimes carrots can be dessert! This is a one-bowl cake that makes a great snack, dessert-or, lightly toasted, breakfast.
¾ cup good quality extra virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing the pan
1 cup packed light brown sugar
2 large eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
1 teaspoon sea salt
1¾ cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
1½ packed cups peeled and grated carrots, from 3 medium carrots
½ cup toasted walnuts
½ cup golden raisins
Powdered sugar for garnish
Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees and set a rack in the center. Grease a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan. Line the pan with a strip of parchment paper that hangs over the two long sides.
Whisk EVOO, brown sugar, eggs, and vanilla until lightly colored and thick.
Add cinnamon, cardamom, and salt.
Whisk flour with baking powder and baking soda. Add to egg mixture and stir to combine. Don't over mix, or the cake will be tough.
Fold in carrots, walnuts, and raisins.
Pour the batter into prepared pan. Place pan on a baking sheet and into pre-heated oven.
Bake for 50-60 minutes or until a cake-tester, inserted, comes out with just a few moist crumbs clinging to it.
Cool on a rack for 30 minutes. Lift out using parchment paper.
Peel off parchment and cool completely before dusting with powdered sugar.
Laura Frankel-a noted kosher chef, and cookbook author-serves as Director of Culinary Operations at CJE SeniorLife-Tamarisk NorthShore. She is also a Product Development Specialist and has worked as Culinary Director for a media company.
