Each year at Chanukah, we make important decisions. We decide which aspect of the Chanukah story to focus on--and decide which oily food is going to set off our smoke detectors. These aspects of Chanukah are intertwined throughout our history.
Many are familiar with
latkes
(potato pancakes) and
sufganiyot
(jelly donuts), two of the modern-day common Chanukah foods. Having any foods associated with the holiday is actually a recent phenomenon.
For most of our history, Chanukah has been viewed as a minor holiday, as it is not described in the Torah. Rather, the holiday appears in the books of the Maccabees in our
Tanakh
. Holiday rituals, such as lighting the
Chanukiah
, do not actually appear as a written custom until the
Mishnah
in the third century.
Unlike holidays such as Passover and Sukkot, we are not instructed to eat a festive meal. Yet, today, Chanukah would not be complete without specific foods.
One of the key stories we retell each year is the miracle of out: At the end of a war, the Jewish people had the task of rededicating the Temple as their holy space, but could only find enough oil for one night. Through a miracle, the oil lasted eight nights.
Thus, began a tradition, or a
minhag
, for many Jewish communities to eat foods cooked in oil, such as
sufganiyot
. This became common in Sephardi and Mizrachi regions, where fried pastries evolved as Chanukah treats.
For at least 500 years, Jews have celebrated Chanukah with a sweet and oily treat, with different Jewish communities developing their own Chanukah delicacies.
In Morocco and Egypt, it is
zangula
, a funnel cake-like treat coated in cinnamon sugar or honey. In Algeria, it is
sefengo kindel
, a fried dough sometimes filled with plums; in other parts of North Africa, it is a fried roll resembling a rose, called a
debla
. In India, it is a milk-based pastry called
gulab jamun
, while in Turkey,
lokmas
, a yeast-based fried dough became popular. In Spain and parts of Latin America,
bimuelos
, a fried dough ball with honey or syrup on top, became the norm. In Ashkenazi regions, fried foods like
latkes
and now donuts are common.
A different Chanukah story came to the forefront in some communities--that of Judith, the heroine who used her wit and beauty to defeat the Assyrian general besieging her city. She plied him with wine and cheese until he fell asleep--and then she beheaded him. Judith inspires generations of women to lean into their bravery and intelligence in difficult times. To remember her resourcefulness, many Jewish communities developed a tradition of eating dairy products during Chanukah.
In Ashkenazi communities, dairy
kugels
, cheese dumplings, cheesecakes, and
rugelach
become common. In Russia, a barley soup with sour cream was served, and in Hungary,
delkelekh
, a type of cheese buns, became popular. In Italy, it was a fried cheese-filled pancake that later developed into our modern-day
latke
. On the seventh day of Chanukah, Jewish communities in North Africa's Maghreb region celebrate
Chag ha'Banot
, the Festival of the Daughters, wherein women would gather, sing, and enjoy festive foods such as sweetened couscous or dishes with buttermilk.
These foods contain our history and help us remember the miracle of Chanukah. They also elicit memories and family traditions as we remember the bravery of Judith and the miracle of the oil.
In this darkest time of the year, we recall that there are always miracles around us. Whether it is the glow of the Chanukah candles, the smell of fried treats, or the taste of cheese, enjoy this holiday--and eat something that reminds you of the meaning behind Chanukah.
Some of the information for this column came from Gil Marks' Encyclopedia of Jewish Food (2010).
Rabbi Rebecca Benoff is the spiritual leader of Chicago Sinai Congregation.
